A Tough Pond to Fish

People who toil to improve Haiti’s health-care system, as Nate Nickerson has done for years, must be content with small victories

Nate Nickerson at Justinian Hospital in Cap Haitien

CAP HAITIEN, HAITI–Driving through Cap-Haitien, Haiti’s largest city in the north, six months after the earthquake, it’s easy to forget for a moment that a city in rubble lies a mere seventy miles away. The World Cup is on, and in an hour the Brazil vs. Holland soccer match will begin. At eight a.m., people dressed in yellow and green Brazil jerseys are lugging huge TV sets onto sidewalks so that entire neighborhoods can watch together. Brazil and Argentina are the most popular teams. When I ask Edy, my genial translator and driver, why those teams are favored, he smiles broadly. “Because they always win,” he says, “and Haiti wants to go with a winner.”

Cap Haitian is the largest city in the north of Haiti

I don’t know if the irony of those words registers with him. It would be hard to think of a country that the rest of the world sees as a bigger loser than Haiti. Even before the January 2010 earthquake, its extreme poverty, near-constant political upheaval, AIDS, severe deforestation, and coastline that is regularly battered by storms earned Haiti the ignominious title of poorest country in the Western Hemisphere. The quake only compounded the country’s problems, leaving roughly 10 percent of the population homeless, the government decimated, and conditions ripe for mass disease outbreaks, such as the cholera epidemic that began last October and killed thousands.

Still, on a sultry early morning in July, the streets are humming with laughter and music, and it’s easy to see why people like Nate Nickerson, A78, A06P, believe Haiti is worth saving. Continue reading

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Behind the Scenes, Computer Programmers and Engineers Save Lives in Iraq and Afghanistan

Engineer Seth Kaufman gives a demonstration of the Talon robot. Photo: Alonso Nichols

In the movie “The Hurt Locker,” the head of an Army bomb squad fearlessly–and with a certain amount of swagger–disarms the homemade bombs that have accounted for most U.S. casualties in the Iraq War. While engineers and computer programmers working in the war effort stateside might not cut the same romantic figure that is the stuff of movies, they are responsible for the technology that has saved untold numbers of soldiers’ lives—military robots that detect and dismantle bombs.

“Bots,” as they are affectionately known by the troops, are often given human names by the soldiers who serve with them and, when they “expire,” many are sent back decorated with American flags and with notes explaining how they met their demise.

“The troops love the bots,” explains Jason Rife, an engineering professor and head of the Tufts Robotics Lab, “because they get blown up instead of them.”

Bombs are as old as warfare, going back to the invention of gunpowder in China in the 9th century. But the coordinated, large-scale use of homemade bombs—IEDs or improvised explosive devices—is recent. Continue reading

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Ten Months After the Earthquake, Nutritionists Struggle to Feed Haiti’s Dispossessed

Nutritionists Discuss the Difficulty of Getting Food Aid to Haiti’s 1.3 Million Still Living in Tents

Nutritionist Erin Boyd in front of UNICEF headquarters in Port-au-Prince

Port-au-Prince, Haiti—It can take emergency nutritionist Erin Boyd a full ten-hour day to travel between just two of the temporary encampments in the rubble-choked city of Port-au-Prince. With nearly 1,500 of these tent cities, her job of assessing food needs for the people still living in them becomes almost unfathomable. Boyd came to Haiti from her regular post in Darfur on an “emergency” basis last April. Seven months later she is still here, more than a million Haitians are still homeless, and—just like the squalid camps that stretch for city blocks—there is no end in sight. Continue reading

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Academics Team up With “Witch Doctors” to Alleviate Conflict in East Africa

For thousands of years, cattle have been the lifeblood of a region known as the Karamoja in eastern Africa. For the migratory herdsmen who eke out a living in the remote drylands between Uganda, Kenya and southern Sudan, cattle represent wealth and status; they provide food in the form of meat and milk. But in recent decades, their way of life has come under threat, as conflict over scarce natural resources like grazing land and water has led to banditry, increased poverty and violent clashes.

Karamoja area of detail. Map: UN

Rather than imposing Western models of dispute resolution on the nomadic herders, international agencies are now turning to traditional ones. As part of a larger initiative to promote stability in the region, researchers at Tufts University’s Feinstein International Center have been working with an unusual group—traditional seers, more colloquially known as “witch doctors.” Continue reading

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State Dept. Chief of Civilian Force Quits

Herbst (fifth from left ) in Khost province, Afghanistan

Last month John Herbst, a 31-year career diplomat, quietly resigned from his post at the State Department, where he was in charge of developing a force of American civilians to rebuild countries in crisis like Afghanistan and Haiti. Now that future of that force known as the Civilian Response Corps is uncertain, a team Herbst once called “the future of American diplomacy.”

I interviewed Herbst two years ago, after he had just received $65 million from Congress and another $75 million from the Obama administration to fund the unique program. At that time, Herbst said that so-called failed nations–countries in which the local government is no longer able to provide rule of law or basic services such as water and electricity–pose the “biggest security challenge of our time.” Continue reading

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Six Months After the Earthquake, U.S. Medical Students Alleviate Suffering in Cap Haitien, Haiti

Tufts medical students take steps to create a permanent rotation site in northern Haiti

Milot, Haiti–On a hot day in early July, Sally Greenwald walks across a dusty tent clinic in Milot, Haiti, set up by the local hospital to treat earthquake victims flown in from the capital. She points to a young woman in a wheelchair. Six months after the January 12 earthquake that leveled Port-au-Prince and killed more than 200,000 people, the woman is still here, and lately she has begun to wonder what life holds for her. She has no home, no family and no legs. Continue reading

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A Clean, Well-Lighted Place

Looking for a good restaurant in Port-au-Prince? Ask A Nutritionist

Contrary to what you might think, there are plenty of good restaurants in Port-au-Prince that survived the earthquake.

Nutritionists working in Haiti–many of whom enter the field not only because they want to help people but because they love food–tend to know where to go.On my first night in Haiti, emergency nutritionist Erin Boyd, who has worked in Kosovo, Darfur, Ethiopia and now Haiti, took me and photographer Alonso to a place called Brasserie Quartier Latin, a French/Caribbean bistro with Cuban art on the walls and a breezy outdoor patio, lit by candles.

The specials of the night were written in chalk on a standing blackboard, and the waitstaff wore crisp white shirts and black ties. Having landed at the chaotic airport and made our way through rubble-choked streets, I couldn’t believe I was in the same country I’d arrived in six hours ago.

Erin ordered, and we started with a charcuterie plate and tuna tartar. I had my first rum sour, made with Haiti’s famous Barbancourt five-star rum.

Dinner was creole shrimp. The food was delicious and the atmosphere was sublime.

 

It was strange having a fantastic meal in Haiti, amidst the devastation. But Erin believes it’s a country to be enjoyed and could one day be reinvigorated by tourism. After a few days there, it was hard not to agree. Haiti grows on you.

As Erin says, “It’s a beautiful country. The beaches are great, the rum is good. People are kind. You open the windows and you hear a lot of music and people. Haiti is one of those countries you always come back to.”

photos from Brasserie Quartier Latin’s Facebook page. Click here for more on Erin Boyd.

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Nutrition Expert Asked by UN to Draw Up Food Plan for Haiti

Some experts are looking beyond recovery to a new start for one of the world’s poorest countries, but skepticism abounds.

Creole graffiti reads, "Down with thieving NGOs." Photo: Patrick Webb

As Patrick Webb drove through the streets of Port-au-Prince just weeks after the earthquake on January 12, the mood was somber, and signs of frustration—including with the international relief and peacekeeping efforts—were everywhere. Graffiti proclaimed: Aba ONG vole! (down with thieving NGOs) and Aba okypasion! (down with the military occupation).

Haitians had heard about billions of dollars in aid pouring into their country, yet many were—and still are—without basic shelter and food. Continue reading

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A Member of the First U.S. Medical Team to Treat Quake Victims in Haiti Reports

On January 18, six days after a 7.0 magnitude earthquake devastated Haiti, a Massachusetts medical team became the first from the U.S. to treat patients there.

After a 72-hour odyssey that had the team circling the skies over Haiti’s overwhelmed airport then stranded at the embassy, waiting for supplies, transport and finally an Army escort to provide safe passage, the Massachusetts-1 Disaster Medical Assistance Team arrived at their staging site and set up their field hospital in the midst of a tent-city displacement camp. Continue reading

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Back from the Wars

Chuck Lonero took his policing expertise to Kabul to combat drug trafficking

After 30 years on the Tufts University police force, Chuck Lonero was ready to retire last year, but he wouldn’t be hitting the golf course or moving to Florida. Lonero, who had been a detective lieutenant, says he “wanted to do something of substance.” So he headed to Kabul, Afghanistan. For nine months he lived in the heart of a war zone, training new police recruits for a seemingly impossible task: fighting the drug business in the opium-growing capital of the world.

The daunting nature of the work quickly set in.

Lonero and his Afghan recruits

“The Afghans are a wonderful people, a very courageous people,” says Lonero, who returned to the U.S. in late September. “But it’s the year 1066, and they’re fighting the Battle of Hastings. Policing is a whole new concept, and the corruption in the police department is extensive.”

In Kabul, Lonero worked as part of a team hired to teach at the Counter Narcotics Training Academy. Each month, the team instructed 70 recruits from the Afghan National Police in how to conduct anti-drug operations, including drug raids, interview and interrogation techniques, weapons use, field medicine and defensive tactics such as hand-to-hand combat.

Lonero faced a formidable challenge: imposing Western standards of policing in a country that is still governed along tribal lines. Justice in Afghanistan is meted out by regional mullahs and warlords in much the same way as it has been for centuries.

“The officers used to ask me why they couldn’t torture people,” says Lonero. “I told them you’re in a new world; you’re not going to be doing that anymore. It makes it difficult to gather intelligence, but it’s the more civilized and humane way.”Yet Lonero also found the Afghans to be “a kind people, who have a sense of humor. They know how to make light of themselves when they’ve done something foolish, but they have a sense of pride at the same time. And they all have great haircuts,” he says. “I’ve never seen so many barbershops in such a poor country.”

”Lonero’s qualifications for the job included 17 years as detective on the Tufts force. He also received extensive training, such as courses on drug interdiction with the U.S. Drug Enforcement Administration and classes in diplomatic security with the State Department. The latter prepared him to conduct security operations for visiting officials and dignitaries at Tufts, including Bill Clinton, George W. Bush, South African Bishop Desmond Tutu and Margaret Thatcher.Prior to becoming a detective, Lonero held many different positions on the Tufts force, including police dispatcher and nine years as a beat cop on the Boston campus, a stint that involved working the overnight shift in what was then the city’s “Combat Zone.”

He credits Tufts for his rise from the housing projects and gangs of Somerville, where he grew up, into a world where he could talk about string theory with physics professors and policy with visiting dignitaries.At age 59, Afghanistan was Lonero’s first overseas assignment.

“I was overwhelmed at first,” says Lonero. “But your acuity grows quickly.”

Beyond the sheer physical ruin of Kabul, there were the earthquakes (Lonero survived two), the daily ambushes in the city, the land mines, the dysentery (he lost 40 pounds while there), the 80 percent illiteracy rate and the thin air at 6,200 feet. Not to mention, Lonero says, “everyone has guns.

”What kept him going?“I fell in love,” Lonero says. “I fell in love with the people.”

Amid the ruin, the abject poverty and the corruption, “you see real tenderness between people—between father and child, between husband and wife,” he says. “I saw many, many happy children,” he adds. “And there are a number of kite runners.”

A Long Haul

The poverty in Afghanistan was overwhelming and complicated his assignment, Lonero says. “A lot of our officers sold their guns and uniforms as soon as we trained them.”Bribes were also common, among coalition forces as well as Afghans.

“The bribe of choice in Afghanistan is Viagra. It only stands to reason,” Lonero says. “A lot of the men are old, and they all have three wives.”

Afghanistan’s lucrative drug trade is responsible for some 80 percent of opium on the world market, and profits are used to fund the Taliban, which is one reason why the U.S. and other governments want to stop it. The Counter Narcotics Training Academy was set up by a private company under a contract with the U.S. Department of Defense and employs a team of seven Americans and three French.Frustrations run high in a war in which, as Lonero says, “we are not dismantling but dispersing al-Qaida and the Taliban.”

Helmand Province, for example, the country’s biggest opium producer, has been cleared three times but never captured. The Taliban has returned each time, and they still retain control of the area.

“The Taliban have a saying,” says Lonero. “The Americans have the watch, but we have the time.”In the end, Lonero says he thinks he “got through to maybe 3 or 4 percent” of each class at the academy and expects he will lose 10 percent of that small group to casualties. Yet he does not sound like a man who was fighting a losing battle.

“It comes back to my career in campus law enforcement: education is the key—and that’s what the Taliban doesn’t want. I saw little girls going off to school, dressed in their little burkas, and it gave me hope,” Lonero says. “And I told my colleagues, you’re not going to see a change, but your grandchildren will see a change.”

photos: courtesy of Chuck Lonero. Photos in video courtesy of Chuck Lonero and freemilitaryphotos.com; song “Woh Hata Rahe Hain Pardah” by Nusrat Fatah Ali Khan.
This story appeared in Tufts Journal, Dec. 2, 2009.

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